The first stop on our way from San Francisco to L.A.: Mazda Raceway Laguna SecaThe calm before the stormBig SurBig SurHenry Miller Library, a hidden oasis on the Cabrillo HighwayPacific sunsetOn our way to CambriaJ.J. Pizza in Cambria: good beers and burgers, huge onion rings, genuine American moodMorning at Morro BayWaiting for the otters at Morro BayA famous name, but we're in California, not New MexicoMelville's Moby Dick in Santa Barbara